Good evening, dear readers! Today, the focus - the Abkhazian town Tkuarchal. Once a major industrial center, town, in the number of residents occupying second place in the Abkhaz capital Sukhumi after, 92-93 years after the war has become virtually a ghost town. Currently, the city of vast territories occupied by abandoned and dilapidated buildings. Major streets are empty. In the lower part of the city one can see the pipe and giant buildings of the former power station. However, not all so sad, life in this city is gradually reviving. This and more in today's reportage (lots of photos!).
"Tkuarchal was founded as an industrial center of Abkhazia in 1942. In Soviet times, the city was called Tkvarcheli and was a member of the Abkhazian Autonomous Republic, which has been part of the Georgian Soviet Socialist Republic. The city is clearly divided geographically (due to the local topography) on the upper and lower part, called the upper and lower areas and linked ring road, the cable car and a long staircase, there are hundreds of steps. Tkuarchal - a unique place - a city that is completely ringed by mountains and only one road leading to the entrance and exit (including HDD). interesting and its unique architecture is the city. Most of the administrative and public buildings as well as housing in the central part of Tkvarcheli were built by German soldiers prisoner (after 1943-44). In designing buildings involved German architects and engineers. This has left a unique imprint on the city and make it different from all the other small towns of the USSR. The War of 1992-1993 caused an irreparable damage to the city. Many buildings were destroyed, while others simply fell into disrepair without proper maintenance. During the 1992-1993 war the city experienced the hardest blockade, which lasted 413 days. The victims of the blockade and bombing of Georgian troops began a few hundred civilians. "
This article can be found, if you go to Wikipedia and read about the city. This year, during the holidays in Abkhazia, it was decided to go and see the city with your own eyes. After reading various articles on the Internet, we have compiled a few routes and identified the main goals that we would like to visit. You could take the conductors, but we decided to go on their own. In the Abkhaz capital Sukhum at the station we first looked at the schedule of buses and outlined the relevant day, when he went into the city. And at around 8 in the morning we take a bus and move off. Outside the window flashed different villages, fields, rivers and mountains. A couple of hours the road starts to wrap, we are beginning to pass between the mountains. According to GPS we see that soon will come. In the end we arrive at the city market.
1. The first point that we are going to look - it's famous railway bridge across the river to the area Aaldzga Akarmaru. Warped arc over a mountain river, it is a unique architectural construction. If you go down and go along the former w / e way you can get into such interesting places like abandoned area Akarmaru, radon baths and mines coal. But we have very limited time, so we go to the other side.
2. Behind find former cafe "Lashkindar." Inside, the walls are decorated with paintings on the theme of a miner, but the overall condition is quite sad. Right down the road past the dam in the direction of the former power station.
3. Before you leave, make a photo of the former railway bridge with approach.
4. The nature around is incredible. Clouds trail on the tops of mountains, lush vegetation all around, noisy mountain river bottom, in this photo you can see one of the rocks, which is located nearby.
5. It should be noted that the bus brought us to the top of the city. And now we are on the road that will lead us to the bottom. On the way we pass a pair of destroyed and a couple of houses. One of them drew our attention to a beautiful fountain. It looks very atmospheric, floating autumn leaves. In the center of the fountain - a figure heron on the perimeter - the three little frogs.
6. And here is one of the houses. Already here felt the architecture of the 50s, but then the report will meet and much more beautiful)
7. Fountain Frog approximation. All very moldy.
8. Go further. We find ourselves in one of the many bridges over the river Akarmara. On the shore stands a lonely abandoned Hruschev time period, and below grohochat raging waters of a mountain river.
9. But I forgot to show you the former dam. If somewhere in the middle of an abandoned cafe to get out to the edge of the bridge, in the distance you can see the remains of a dam on a mountain river.
10. From this bridge will take a photo in a different direction - toward the city. Very beautiful scenery. Weather in principle has been gracious to us, except that it was sometimes too sunny, but it isnt a problem?
11. And this tree, we are particularly interested. Average tree, only the high was overgrown blackberry thickets of berry bushy - "Azhina" 5 meters from the ground.
12. Away shows the city's main road bridge. It is for him a bus and rides towards the final stop - the city market.
13. On the right side of the river again appear abandoned or unfinished houses. Now do not even understand. House is very overgrown with grass and bushes.
14. But in the meantime we go on. In the course of the way in this part of the city that we still have not met anyone. Around the trees are gradually try on autumn outfits. Although the southern region, here, too, comes the fall. By the way, in the city - excellent climatic conditions. The climate is subtropical - warm summers (average temperature July 28 ° C), winter is moderately soft and warm (average January temperature of +8 ° C); precipitation of over 2,000 mm per year. We pass under the road bridge, but so far the city center do not go.
15. Bridge behind, we have shown the former railroad bed and a bright cast trailer. At that moment, as I did this shot, the guard called out behind us and offered to go to him. What we did.
16. He told us the history of the company and offered to go to an independent study of the factory. Well, we do not have to beg for a long time, soon we went to industrial buildings. But before you start showing photos disused power station, will give a commemorative plaque on the administrative building and a brief history of Tkuarchal as an industrial center.
"Tkuarchal in the years after the Second World War has been developing industrial town. In the Soviet era mining town it was unique - both in the scale of the Abkhaz ASSR, so, perhaps, on the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus. Its official status of industrial center of Abkhazia only to a small extent reflects the extraordinary atmosphere which reigned in this city, and that still unites almost all of its former residents, wherever they are. Tkvarcheli coal deposits, which have become the basis for the prosperity of the city in 50-70-ies. XX century, exploited intensively. The depletion of coal reserves which gave itself felt even before the collapse of the Soviet Union, was the reason that, long before the beginning of the Georgian-Abkhazian war population of Tkvarcheli, at one time there were up to 40 thousand people, was reduced to 20 - 25 thousand. But this time, on the former site of the Abkhazian village at the confluence of the rivers and Galidzga Gedzhirka in the valley, fenced wooded ridges, formed a completely unique world. City of scattered islands on several terraces; multi-storey houses on the slopes; residential areas adjacent to the cliffs and waterfalls; nature, combining the best scenery Abzhui Abkhazia. And yet - a complex business: the mine with ore-dressing plant; hydroelectric power plant that can power the entire region; many plants issued very different products - from asphalt and dolomite kroshkido electronic means. Tkvarcheli was in full sense of the word labor town, a dream come true communist propagandists that ensured factories skilled workers and engineers. At the same time, the city was unusually cultural even by the standards of the Caucasus: the school with a high level of teaching outside the box; intellectuals, is not inferior to Sukhumi and Tbilisi; Palace of Culture, its impressive monumental architecture and refinement. "
"In the '80s began curtailing production of coal, and Tkvarcheli power station, which was originally and for many years consumed a considerable share of coal mined nearby, was transferred to work on specially let down the pipeline. Coal is transported mainly in the direction of Kutaisi. In 1992, the Georgian-Abkhazian War, which killed a huge number of people, the city, and after the war, many residents left the city. By the end of the 2000s the city's population was about 5,000. "
17. Well, we are after a short conversation with the guard at a checkpoint set off in the direction of the abandoned buildings. The spectacle opens just extraordinary, the scale is staggering. Unfortunately, a vast territory and building on it pretty much destroyed, so the appointment is not amenable to an understanding of all the buildings ... Before us - the half-dismantled part of the main body. In the background one can see two tall smokestacks.
18. The destroyed part we did not go, but in the body on the left - please. Especially as it is preserved much better. Inside rampant vegetation, there are mountains of scrap metal. Entering the room, I even stood in amazement. I do not expect to see such an impressive picture (it must be seen to understand).
19. Right to the place where previously housed hydroelectric generator. It should be noted that absolutely all the buildings in the TPP are in extremely poor condition. A lot of holes, gaps, overlaps emergency destroyed by bombs walls, sticking valves and other dangerous elements, so there should be very careful! By mossy stairs rise to the second floor.
20. Honestly - I can not write correctly, that there is and how it works. But judging by the past record Komrad vmulder, the remains of a generator, and a bit further you can find the control panel.
21. If at the beginning of this case to raise his head, you can find a huge transformer hanging on the hook of cargo cranes. This "cute" picture.
22. But we'll see, if you go a little further on that body.
23. A few more pictures. By the way, the window you can see the OSG (outdoor switchgear), which is said to the guard, and guard them as the electricity is supplied to the city from here. I mean, it works and protected.
24. On the walls up a "garden city". Stunning picture capture human nature works.
25. Look out for a short while on the street. On the left one can see the building, from which we have just left, and the right distance - OSG sites. And still visible lush branch Physalis.
26. Let's go back and take another shot opening the post-apocalyptic paintings.
27. But time is running out, so it will go on. Before us grows very tall chimney. It is insanely high and barely got into the frame. Some may want to zarufit her, but this time I spat and scored (all state structures rather dubious, the height of a huge plus heat).
28. If you look on the tube from the previous frame can be seen a dark round spot. Move in with the zoom. As said, the watchman - the result of a rocket hit the Georgian SU. Despite the hit, trumpet, built by the Germans, remained standing in place.
29. We pass the pipe, far shown conveyor junction for supplying coal between the main building and the second. By the way, visible and grazing horses.
30. But making this picture, I fell into a puddle of mud up to his ankles. Later we saw that the entire territory of this part of TPP is the dirt and muck.
"Are you in the competition for the title of a communist attitude to work!" and beautiful metal star on top. By the way on the right side of the building, even full of life (!)
31. In the distance is shown a second building TPP form of a ship or even a spaceship, I do not even know what to compare. The architecture is very nice, unusual.
Around roll cores from buses, cars (!) And other mountains of scrap metal.
32. This building is also quite an emergency, it is worth looking at the ground, but the stairs in quite good condition and can be gently rise to the upper floors. In general, the rooms pustovato, so I move on to the fun. On the upper floors, we have seen a very beautiful lighting and glare from the sun. Also, as in other buildings, greenery actively spreading all around.
33. If it's so empty, why are we here up? Of course, for the species! Very beautiful scenery around the opening. In the left part of the photo you can see the large semi-abandoned processing plants.
The main industries Tkuarchal always was mining and refining. Mined coal is transported to the processing plant, whose products are intended for the supply of coking coal concentrate.
Since 2002, the mines of coal mining and its subsequent export to Turkey was engaged in the Abkhazian-Turkish campaign "Tamsash" to invest in the production of over $ 20 million. In December 2009, the company transformed into Abkhazian Company "Tkuarchalugol." Budget Tkuarchal district is 90% dependent on this company. However, coal mining is conducted by open way, which leads to pollution of the river and Aaldzga annoys local residents and a number of politicians of Abkhazia, so in 2010 the open method was banned (?). "
In the right part of the image is visible tower of the intermediate cableway serving the city until 1993 and connects the upper and lower part of the city. In the background one can see the mountains.
34. Tower cable car. Previously, the city had a few cable cars, but to have survived only one. Preserved two stations (upper and lower), the intermediate tower and rusty connecting cables, and most notably - a trailer, which has become a kind of "unofficial symbol" of the city. But about it later.
35. A little vegetation on the floor of the second building TPP.
36. And in this picture into the frame was also the main railway station, now virtually deserted. Unfortunately we do not have time to reach it, but anyone interested can view photos in other reports the boys.
37. But the legendary wagon! No wonder I took telephoto.
38. Ivy chokes the rusty metal active in the building and on the street.
39. Well, the most unusual kind, in my opinion, open to the side of the main building and power station factory chimney. Fascinating spectacle. Nature, Environment and exciting work of human hands, ate on the roof, the grass on the floor, Yeah ...
Of course, we must always remember that the buildings are without roofs and floors for a reason.
"The former mining town during the war for independence became the center of national resistance to the Abkhaz. A small town in a valley succumbed to all the dangers, withstood all enemy attacks, and its streets will never set foot Georgian soldier. The war of 1992-93 was a year of Tkvarcheli one of the centers of resistance in the siege, subjected to constant shelling, but has not been taken by the Georgian troops. On September 27, 2008 President of Abkhazia Sergei Bagapsh signed a decree on awarding Tkuarchal honorary title "Hero City" ... "
The evacuation of the besieged Tkvarcheli attended by Russian pilots. One of the helicopters, the export of refugees - women and children, was shot down over the village of Lata ... "
40. A little more bite and a rest, we go down to the study of the second part of the main building.
41. We pass through mud puddles and past peacefully grazing horses, we go back to the main building.
42. And this is its facade looks in good light.
43. Then we went into the building, probluzhdali long time in the dark labyrinth of stairs and floors of abandoned and eventually went to the second floor. This is the place surprised me the most. Everywhere were bushes and grass. Before us was a body without floors and roof as a crater on the sides of which grew a lot of vegetation. Here you need to look very carefully at his feet, nowhere to fall. By the way, straight ahead - the second tube power station and to the left - see the bunkers, from which coal is fed.
44. But lighting here was just awful. Moreover, we wanted to get out of here. Therefore, following a riot a few shots of nature.
46. Frames have been a lot more, but I will not pile up a report, so we restrict these. Got out of the main building, the administrative studied (already tired, so little photographed). We chatted with the guard before the exit to the site. He told us the epic story of how caught foreigner-Holland - "spy" as he decided. Then we photographed goodbye embarking hours and went on.
47. And now - positive! Bright autumn colors of the trees and the bright colors of blue sky) on the main road bridge go to the center, the living part of the city.
48. Sun took a little bit to the side, so you can now take pictures of everything in the right light. The views from the bridge.
49. Gradually we begin to meet people, and residential buildings. The town is very friendly (!), As it is not paradoxical sounds.
50. Since the lift does not work, we go up to the highest ladder with a bunch of steps, and is directly in front of the city administration. How nice! If this city to recover, enter environmentally friendly production, I would like to live here. Now all the main factory power work in a very small force, so the purest air in the city. And the herbs and pine needles around the mountain - it's just wonderful.
51. There is some opposition between the upper and lower parts of the city. We got to the top station of the cable car and make the frame down. At first, I really wanted to climb up that tower, but not corny enough time. By the way, on the left side of the frame is clearly visible oddly shaped body in the territory of TPP, where we were doing landscape shots.
52. Suddenly, on the floor of the lift station we find berry-like strawberries! it turned out, this "Indian dyusheneya")
53. The streets of the city - it's just some kind of paradise. After the stuffy and dirty Moscow, they seemed a miracle. Machines actually no, beautiful architecture of the houses directly under the windows grow conifers.
54. New monument to the heroes of the war of 1941-45 and 1992-1993, which were cast in Russia. A very strong match.
55. Unfortunately, in this lively part found destroyed houses, damaged during the war.
56. On the streets sometimes you can meet cows, but here in the usual yard grazing horses. Idyll)
57. Another beautiful examples of urban architecture. Residential house on one of the central streets.
58. Abandoned house on a street in the upper part of the city.
59. The plants are already growing without the help of people.
60. My favorite place - near the house of culture and administration. We tried to find a cafe, it was closed. However, it was found more directly outdoors. We made ravioli in cream, iced coffee and ice cream. Right in the shade of the trees and we had lunch, by the way, quite delicious.
61. Well, we headed towards the bus stop - in the region of 17 hours of care per day last bus at Sukhumi, and then get out of here will be quite problematic. The main street of the city and beautiful cypress trees with conifers along it. Bright banner of mobile internet once again reminds that everyone here is just beginning.
In the course of the walk I met a lot of people, and students who want to take us on a tour to the waterfall, and the girls in beautiful dresses, and just city dwellers. Do not think that the city streets are empty, and it all became extinct. DK almost restored, many new buildings are made from top of the roof. Institutions and restored the house. So everything is still ahead. Such a beautiful city to be a bright future.
Thank you so much for the material expressed by the following resources:
1). LJ vmulder
http://vmulder.livejournal.com/77616.html and other items.
2). Абхазская интернет-библиотека
3). Report on Urban3p user nistratov http://urban3p.ru/blogs/31277/
4). News of the Black Sea. http://www.blackseanews.net/read/15529
If you liked this report, check out also:
1.Abandoned station "Sukhumi" + forgotten train 2. Sunset on the roof near Black Sea 3. Gagra. Abandoned pension
Thank you for your attention!
P.S. And for those who want to see my travels and adventures in real time, I propose to add me to Instagram;)
I will be very glad to new friends and readers in LJ! Friends;)